Forums General Topics Brewing Methods and Techniques Dry Hopping with BK10


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    Rod Jarvie

    How and what is best way to dry hop with BK10?

    Beer willy

    I did my first dry hop last night on my brewkeg50 following the directions in the WW recipe files.
    AFter your first clarification, close the valve and remove the sediment bottle. Dump the sediment and clean out the bottle.
    I used starsan to sanitize the bottle and the valve.

    Boil some water and cool to 75deg. Put the hops directly into you sediment bottle and add the water to essentially make a strong hop tea. Top up the bottle with beer/foam from the dispense tap and then screw the bottle back onto your keg.
    open the butterfly valve very slowly and you will see the warm tea rise out of the bottle into the keg (heat rises) taking all the hoppy goodness up with it..
    I did this less than 24 hours ago and it has dramatically changed my IPA. Even tho they suggest not taking any samples for a couple of days so as not to block the tap etc (I’m impatient)…I took a sample…
    It’s a game changer in my opinion and chances are, most of my beers will be dry hopped in future using this method!

    Aidan Hill

    I have a BK10 too and with the sedient bottle being a lot smaller than BK25s, 50s and Brewmasters what would be the max amount of hops to be able to put into it?

    Beer willy

    I have a bk10 also. I would think you could easily do a 50gm dry hop and probably more if you wanted.
    I did a 50gm dry hop in my 50ltr, tho I was only doing a 25ltr batch at the time. The hop matter filled maybe 1 third of the sediment bottle. I wish I had have added more..
    There is only 600mls volume difference between a 10ltr (1.2ltr) and a 25/50ltr (1.8ltr) sediment bottle.
    Its just trial and error really. I had no issues with using this method and I also never had to clarify the beer afterwards, as the hops just dropped out after a day or so.
    Dont quote me on any of this as I’m only guessing in regards to the 10ltr.

    Vaughan Walker

    Thanks for this info. Ive got 2 x bk10s & Ive tried hop tea at the start of fermentation during the initial mix but havnt been happy with the result. It also seemed to slow down the start of the fermentation process.
    Second time I tried suspending the compressed hops in 2 large stainless tea infuser balls after fermentation which also wasnt a good idea. Next brew Im gonna give this a go – many thanks!

    Troy Tane

    Hi Vaughan I have a BK10 and have done a couple of brews with steeped hops and really happy with results.. I strain the hops several times so the hop tea is really clear. Havent seen any slow down in fermentation..


    When i did the Super Charger Clone I dried hopped from start of fermentation with over 100gms of hops in a BK10. Just had to dump the sediment bottle on day 6 of fermentation, fill with foam, reattach and open the valve for the remaining hops/sediment.

    Beer willy

    Soooo…another method I’ve have now tried..
    I did my first ever all grain brew a week ago (black IPA) and the recipe calls for a dry hop 5-7days into fermentation. This is in regards to the normal brew schedule that takes weeks without a pressure fermenter.
    So I decided to do a dry hop during the fermentation period (day 2) by opening the lid of the brewkeg and adding the pellets directly. I put the lid back on and gassed with Co2 back up to 2 bar pressure.
    Everything seemed OK until I checked the next morn and there was no yeast activity whatsoever. I took a gravity reading of 1020. FG is meant to be 1012.
    I figured I had done the wrong thing by opening the keg and that the the yeast had died.. but decided to leave it another day and check gravity again. 24 hours later I checked again and the yeasties had sprung back to life! Phew!
    Today (day 5) it’s @ 1016, and tastes bloody great! Warm and cloudy, but great!
    As far as the recipe goes I have done all of the required hop additions but I do plan to do another one after first clarification using the method I mentioned above. I do love my hops!


    I would have some concerns about the risk of having oxygen exposure opening it up.

    There could be a risk of contaminates getting in given the lids open inward though.

    Rather open it up, I’d tend to just add the hops from the outset.


    Obviously im missing something.
    What is the reason for dry hopping?


    Basically the technique add adds aromatic oils that are normally lost in the boiling process. Hops soak in the beer which results in a hoppy aroma (a lot of taste is through smell) and there is a boost to the flavour.

    Common with beer styles with high hop rates such as IPAs & Pale Ales but not limited to those only.

    Definitely worth a shot.


    Is it possible to finish the clarification process, then complete the dry hop method if you want more hop flavour?

    Is the risk blocking the kegerator lines as mentioned above? Any other things to consider?

    Thanks in advance!


    I dry hop after clarification has finished. Close butterfly valve, remove and clean sediment bowl before adding the hops into a muslin cloth bag then put it into the sediment bowl. The cloth bag stops the hops from blocking the lines. Top up with beer from the beer out line to remove oxygen add screw the bowl back onto the keg. Open the butterfly valve and let it sit for about 2-3 days to add flavour then close the butterfly valve. I do about 25 grams of dry hops at a time with my Brewkeg25.


    Thanks RJ I will give that a go!

    I read somewhere that starting with 10grams for a brewkeg10, so your 25grams is in line with that, cheers.

    Jason Hill

    HI, did you use your own reciepe for the super charger clone or did you buy a kit?

    I love big Hoppy IPA’s but have struggled to get those flavours im looking for?

    Any Advice, I have 2 BK10’s


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