April 21, 2014 at 11:25 pm #16393
I have experimented (pre WW days) with bigger beers in the BM. I haven’t gone RIS or Barley Wine as yet but 1.070 beers are fairly easy with either LDME or (what I prefer) are the Weyerman liquid extracts – the range is good and you can buy in bulk. Makes hitting your targets pretty easy as well.
Cheers and good luck with it.
RMApril 22, 2014 at 2:11 am #16394
I quite often do three clarifications and the last one always has a defined sediment layer and clear beer above. I brew all-grain and brew in a bag so often have a major amount of sediment in the beer. After the first clarification the sediment bottle is always full and I assume the top of the sediment level is somewhere in the cone of the WW. I then allow the beer tap to run till the beer looks clearer (if it’s clear anyway then I quickly stop as the sediment level must be close to the top of the bottle) I then clarify again and usually get clear beer in the top of the bottle. Lose a bit of beer but probably no more than if an extra clarification is needed.May 26, 2014 at 11:34 pm #16395
I find I need 3 clarifications and the bottle needs to be emptied once in between. I don’t make the same brew twice as I’m trying different malt mix’s, yeasts (I have a Kiwi pale ale on at the moment and used a White Labs liquid Burton Ale Yeast and had a 8 day fermentation which I thought was odd) and messing around with the water. With the last two pale ale brews I have put in a teaspoon of Irish Moss for the last 15 minutes of the boil to help with the trub and what I’m finding is it doesn’t all drop out into the bottle, quite a lot is stuck to the side of the fermenter. Nine days in and this brew smells medicinal, I’ve blocked the beer line again and things aren’t looking good!
I think I’ll drop the Irish Moss next time and perhaps go back to the Nottingham Ale Yeast!June 12, 2014 at 2:27 am #16396
Sometimes I have to go through three clarifications and the plastic bottle i sometimes have to empty more than once.
Ditto for me. But when I can be patient and let it settle another day or so, I find I sometimes only need 2 clarifications.August 26, 2015 at 8:28 pm #16397
I just completed my first all grain brew yesterday. I used the Grandfather machine. It really was pretty simple to use. I out the unit right next to the WW and when it was done, the Grandfather pumps the cooled wort directly into the WW.
Here is how I handled the trub issues. I bought an additional sediment bottle from Amazon. Once the wort was in the WW, I opened the valve and let the true settle while the wort was sealed up in the WW. About an hour later the trub filled the sediment bottle. During this time, I had the yeast hydrating in the additional sediment bottle. when the majority of trub dropped out, I swapped the bottles and pitched the yeast. So far, I am getting pressure. we will see. The wort is very clear and I am hoping to have a nice IPA in a week!
I hope this helps,
BrianSeptember 25, 2016 at 2:24 am #16402
My last 2 ferments have been weird and the trub/ yeast has been rising up and leaving a beer layer under neath. The ferment has been longer as well. cant seem to add a pic sorry
Cheers AydenSeptember 26, 2016 at 11:41 am #16400
Do you mean rising up in the sediment bottle? That’s what happened to me after pumping a heap of trub from the grainfather.
The bottle was full of trub to start with, after about three hours it had some trub down low, clear middle, thick trub up top, with clumps of it moving up and down like a lava lamp!
I reckon the trub was stuck trying to rise through the valve so I closed and opened it few times break it up, the next morning everything looked normal so that seemed to do the trick.
Fermentation took 8 days from OG 1.051. I was expecting the clarification to be a problem but as luck would have it all the trub settled into the bottle and came out in the first dump, we only needed the one clarification.
Hope this helps
RickSeptember 29, 2016 at 7:53 am #16398
Yip that’s pretty much it but I never got to it in time to loosen up and it completely blocks the throat of the bottle and through th valve. I’ve taken the bottle off now and it is very gritty hop matter and trub. Need to improve my take off point in my kettle.
Cheers AydenOctober 1, 2016 at 12:50 am #16399
From my experience you need to keep as much of the trub (hot/cold break) out of the WW as you can. I use an immersion chiller to cool the wort to as low a temperature as my water will allow. In winter I can generally get the wort down to 20C but in summer battle to get to 30C. I recirculate water from my rain water tank through the immersion chiller and back to the tank so water usage is not an issue for me. I have thought about making a pre chiller to reduce the temperature of the water flowing through the immersion chiller once the wort temperature gets down to around 35C in summer but so far haven’t progressed this.
Once I get the wort to as low a temperature as I can I then whirlpool and let it stand for about 1 hour so as to settle before draining to WW. I use a 20lt Braumeister and drain slowly and as the wort approaches the bottom I gently tip the Braumeister towards the outlet tap and continue to drain until the trub starts to be drawn into the tap which is when I stop. This leaves about 4lt of trub in the bottom of the Braumeister which I adjust the brew volumes to account for.
Once in the WW with the sediment bottle attached and valve open I set the temperature to 15C and leave the machine for about another 1 hour and this allows any trub (cold break) that made it’s way into the WW to settle into the sediment bottle which I then remove and empty reset the temperature to my desired fermenting range prior to pitching the yeast. My recipe volumes also allow for this sediment bottle full to be ditched prior to pitching the yeast.
In my view if you are using a counter flow chiller then you will end up with a heap of cold break in the WW which you will have to manage down the track
WobblyMarch 8, 2017 at 9:56 am #16401
Many thanks for info 🙂August 19, 2019 at 5:46 am #19396
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