Recent Replies

I’ve got the same problem – great carbonation but no head?? although a did move the brewkeg10 from home to work by car (50k) before I clarified it? as I am about to show it off to my mates at the office – which is not ideal 🙁 Interestingly the flavor is a bit on […]

Author: malatthenotebook     2 days ago

Thanks Pat, that makes sense now. I do hope WilliamsWarn will now do something about to warn the users of this peculiarity with the cider so that no others will have to go through my experience.

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Author: louis.pearce79     6 days ago

I am a chemical engineer. we had a small topic on beer manufacturing. But forgot everything. If anyone has a good understanding please share. By the way, I have a construction company Kerala, I am also expanding my business to some other fields as well. so I am thinking why not beer manufacture?

Author: trianglehomez123     1 week ago

Hi Daniel, only saw your post today – not receiving notifications any longer, for some reason. I have a brewmaster (23ltrs). Reason why I boiled the wort (LME+DME) just to try a hybrid brew of sorts. On all grains the wort is boiled and I thought it maybe would integrate the flavours more. Couldn’t say […]

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Author: iam.abramson     3 weeks ago

All good advice and pretty much my standard process. About my 40th brew with this, and about 1/2 and 1/2 kit/all-grain. Last two brews the only ones to do this. I’ve had crystal clear beers consistently previously. I’ll do another brew, and see where I get to. I’m suspected way overcarbed, but that’s not consistent […]

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Author: himanshuarya9162     2 months ago

Hi Phil I have seen all grain recipes using vanilla beans halved and put in with the beer. Usually 2-3 beans for 20L. I think you should soak in vodka first to sanitise,scrap the gunky bit out first. Hopefully someone can chime in that has used before Cheers

Author: brendos     2 months ago

If fermenting-temperature (depending on beer-style) and -pressure settings are correct…. Your beer will be ready when returning from holidays. Lager: about 12º to 15º C – Ale: about 18º to 20º C – pressure about 15 PSI or slightly lower. These setting will make sure your beer won’t overflow during fermentation. Hopefully 🙂

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Author: Paul Gibson     2 months ago

I have the same problem with the brewmaster 23L. I take the brew from the line filler and there’s no foam problem. Go through the tap, foam by the glassful. Seems to be getting worse. Have a brew I am chilling down now. Brewed at 1.3 bar and will dispense at 1.1 bar to see […]

Author: lmillard     2 months ago

I am going to try a low alcohol beer in my next brew. There won’t be any DME in it at all. As well as a can of LME and 750gm of grains I’m planning on using a small amount of maltodextrin to add some body and 200gm of hops. I’ve never done this before […]

Author: RJ     2 months ago

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Author: Nolan     2 months ago

Well, I would start with the Fermentis S-23 or any other Lager yeast for about 4 days or longer, depending on fermentation activity, before adding the Lalvin EC-1118 Champagne yeast. After a few more days fermentation should be nearly finished. Gravity reading should have reached about 2.5º Plato etc. If you like doing a Diacetyl-Rest, […]

Author: Nolan     2 months ago

Thanks for all your help Nolan – I sure appreciate it, mate. Cheers

Author: sanco     2 months ago

Has anyone tried using a tubing clamp to stop the beer flow instead of using the dispensing valve? https://www.brewshop.co.nz/brewing-equipment/bottling-equipment/tubing-clamp-plastic.html

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Author: Allan Lawrance     2 months ago

Nice one, FYI i used a 23L IPA kit and split it betwwen two BK10’s – in one i add a couple of tablespoon of the finest Manuka Honey, hard to tell the difference – so maybe needed more? Mal, head brewer and drinker at the Cedar Park Brewery

Author: malatthenotebook     3 months ago